There comes a point in collecting fine watches when the familiar names of Swiss haute horlogerie no longer hold quite the same fascination. Not because their craftsmanship has diminished, but because true appreciation for watchmaking eventually leads beyond the obvious. The most interesting pieces are often those produced in remarkably small numbers, by independent manufacturers whose reputations have been built on mechanical excellence rather than marketing. Moritz Grossmann is one such name, and its new BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel is a particularly compelling example of why independent German watchmaking deserves a place among the finest collections.
Released in 2026 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the birth of Carl Moritz Grossmann, this latest interpretation of the BENU Power Reserve is a beautifully restrained piece of watchmaking. There are no precious stones, no elaborate displays intended to attract attention from across a room, and no attempt to impress through unnecessary extravagance. Instead, it presents something arguably more desirable to the discerning collector: exceptional mechanical craftsmanship, thoughtful design and a degree of exclusivity that few mainstream luxury watches can offer.
Limited to just 18 pieces worldwide, the BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel is not a watch one is likely to encounter across the table at a business lunch or during an evening among fellow collectors. Yet its rarity is only part of the appeal. What makes this watch particularly interesting is the way Moritz Grossmann has brought a contemporary aesthetic to a timepiece that remains deeply connected to the traditions of Glashütte watchmaking.
The Appeal of Moritz Grossmann
Within the world of serious watch collecting, there is a certain satisfaction in owning a timepiece from a manufacturer whose name requires little explanation among those who truly appreciate the craft. Moritz Grossmann belongs to this category. It is not a brand built around celebrity ambassadors or widespread recognition, and that is precisely part of its attraction.
Its heritage stretches back to Carl Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden on 27 March 1826. A gifted watchmaker and influential figure in German horological history, Grossmann established his workshop in Glashütte in 1854. His contributions extended well beyond the production of fine timepieces. As an author, technical innovator and advocate for watchmaking education, he played an important role in establishing the standards that would help Glashütte become one of the world’s most respected centres of mechanical watchmaking.
The modern Moritz Grossmann manufactory was revived in 2008 by Christine Hutter, an accomplished watchmaker with a clear ambition to preserve and advance the traditions associated with the historic name. The company has since established itself as one of Germany’s most respected independent watchmakers, producing highly refined mechanical timepieces with an unmistakable emphasis on traditional construction and hand-finishing.
For a collector accustomed to handling exceptional watches, this philosophy carries considerable weight. There is a difference between paying for prestige and paying for craftsmanship. Ideally, the finest watches offer both, but the latter is ultimately what makes a piece worth keeping. Moritz Grossmann has always understood this distinction.
A More Contemporary Interpretation of the BENU
The BENU Power Reserve has been part of the Moritz Grossmann collection for more than a decade, and its design has traditionally reflected the restrained elegance associated with classical German watchmaking. For the 2026 anniversary, the manufactory has introduced two interpretations featuring anthracite-coloured dials, each with a distinctly different personality.
The darker DLC-coated version is undoubtedly striking, with its almost entirely anthracite appearance giving the traditional BENU design a somewhat architectural character. However, the matt stainless steel version offers a different kind of appeal, and arguably the more versatile aesthetic of the two.
There is something particularly attractive about the relationship between the softly finished stainless steel case and the darker dial. The contrast is subtle, but it creates a visual balance that feels both contemporary and timeless. Rather than allowing the case to dominate the design, Moritz Grossmann has treated it as a beautifully proportioned frame for the dial and the craftsmanship contained within.
At 41mm in diameter and 11.65mm in height, the case has a confident presence on the wrist. These are not the dimensions of a delicate vintage-inspired dress watch, nor is that the intention. The BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel has sufficient substance to sit comfortably alongside other contemporary luxury watches, while retaining the refinement expected of a traditional hand-wound timepiece.
It is the sort of watch that would feel entirely appropriate beneath the cuff of a tailored jacket, yet equally at home in a more relaxed setting. Its appeal is not dependent on formality or occasion. Instead, it comes from the quality of its proportions and the quiet confidence of its design.
An Anthracite Dial with Considerable Depth
The dial is perhaps the most immediately appealing aspect of this new release. Anthracite is an excellent choice for a watch of this character, providing a darker and more contemporary alternative to the traditional silver, cream or white dials often associated with classical watchmaking.
What distinguishes the BENU Power Reserve, however, is the treatment of the dial itself. The rhodium-plated surface features a beautifully executed outer ring with fine azurage decoration, introducing a subtle circular texture that responds to changing light. The applied numerals and hour markers add physical depth, while the handcrafted polished steel hands offer a restrained contrast against the darker surface.
These are details that reveal themselves gradually. At a casual glance, the watch appears clean and relatively uncomplicated. Under closer inspection, the differences in texture, the careful placement of the markers and the quality of the individual components become increasingly apparent.
For those accustomed to finely finished dials, this is where much of the pleasure lies. The finest watchmaking rarely requires dramatic gestures. A beautifully shaped hand, a perfectly proportioned numeral or a carefully executed decorative pattern can provide as much satisfaction as an elaborate complication.
Moritz Grossmann’s decision to retain its traditionally handcrafted hands is especially welcome. They are not simply functional components, but an important expression of the manufacturer’s approach to watchmaking. Their proportions and polished surfaces contribute significantly to the character of the dial, giving the design a level of refinement that would be difficult to achieve through mass-produced alternatives.
The overall result is a dial that feels sophisticated without becoming austere. It has enough visual interest to reward close attention, while maintaining the clarity and balance that make a well-designed watch genuinely enjoyable to wear.
The Power Reserve: Mechanical Ingenuity Without Excess
A power-reserve indicator is not an especially unusual complication in fine watchmaking, but the manner in which Moritz Grossmann has executed it is particularly interesting.
Rather than using a conventional circular indicator with a small hand, the BENU Power Reserve incorporates a slender, linear display. Its two-coloured segment provides a clear indication of the remaining energy within the mainspring, with the mechanism operated through a sophisticated differential gearing system.
It is a beautifully considered solution. The indication is immediately understandable, yet it avoids disturbing the symmetry and balance of the dial. The mechanism itself is considerably more sophisticated than the visual simplicity of the display might suggest.
With a fully wound power reserve of 42 hours, the calibre 100.2 is designed around the traditional pleasure of manually winding a mechanical watch. And there is something particularly satisfying about that ritual when dealing with a movement of this quality.
For collectors who own several watches and rotate between them regularly, a hand-wound movement creates a more deliberate relationship with each piece. The act of winding the watch, feeling the resistance of the crown and observing the power-reserve indicator is part of its character. Automatic winding offers undeniable convenience, but convenience is not always the principal consideration when choosing a fine mechanical timepiece.
At this level of watchmaking, the interaction between owner and movement is part of the attraction. The BENU Power Reserve embraces that relationship rather than attempting to remove it.
Calibre 100.2: Where the Real Value Lies
For all the elegance of the exterior, the most persuasive argument for the BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel is found beneath its sapphire crystal case back.
The manufacture calibre 100.2 is an exceptional example of traditional Glashütte movement construction. Comprising 227 components and 26 jewels, including three housed in screw-fastened gold chatons, the manually wound movement demonstrates a level of mechanical detail that will be immediately appreciated by serious enthusiasts.
Measuring 36.4mm in diameter and 5.4mm in height, it features a traditional pillar construction with a two-thirds plate and frame pillars made from untreated German silver. This material lends the movement a distinctive warmth, particularly when contrasted with the polished screws, gold chatons and elaborate decorative finishing.
German silver has long been associated with some of the finest movements produced in Glashütte. Its appearance develops character over time, while its use in this movement reinforces the connection between the modern manufactory and the traditional methods of German watchmaking.
The finishing is particularly impressive. Broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing decorates the two-thirds plate, while the balance cock and escape-wheel cock feature intricate hand-engraving. The ratchet wheel displays beautiful three-tiered snailing, creating another contrast in texture and surface treatment.
These elements have a very different appeal from the industrial perfection of a modern, highly automated movement. They demonstrate the work of individual craftspeople, whose skills are reflected in components that most owners will admire only through the case back.
That is part of the charm. Exceptional movement finishing is not primarily intended for public admiration. It exists for the satisfaction of those who understand the skill required to produce it. A watch such as this becomes even more rewarding when examined through a loupe, where the delicacy of the engraving and precision of the construction can be properly appreciated.
For the anniversary edition, the balance cock also carries a special ‘1826’ engraving. It is an understated tribute to Carl Moritz Grossmann’s birth year, and a more fitting commemorative detail than an oversized anniversary emblem on the dial would have been.
A Particularly Clever Approach to Setting the Time
Among the mechanical innovations developed by the modern Moritz Grossmann manufactory, its distinctive hand-setting mechanism deserves special recognition.
In most traditional mechanical watches, setting the time involves pulling the crown into its setting position, adjusting the hands and then pressing the crown back into place. It is a familiar process, but one that can occasionally cause a slight movement of the hands as the crown is returned.
Moritz Grossmann approaches the process differently. A brief pull of the crown activates the hand-setting mechanism and stops the movement. The crown returns to its original position, where it can be rotated to adjust the hands. Once the correct time has been selected, a separate pusher restarts the movement and disengages the setting mechanism.
The result is a system designed to permit more precise time setting without the risk of disturbing the hands when pushing the crown back into position. It also reduces the potential for unwanted particles to enter the case during the setting process.
This is the sort of mechanical refinement that makes independent watchmaking so appealing. It is not a complication introduced simply to justify a higher price or an additional line on a specification sheet. It is a genuine reconsideration of a familiar function, executed with the sort of attention to detail that defines the best manufacturers.
Traditional Precision and the Grossmann Balance
The movement’s technical merits extend considerably beyond its finishing and hand-setting system. At its heart is the proprietary Grossmann balance, measuring an impressive 14.2mm in diameter and fitted with four inertia screws and two poising screws.
Operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour, or 2.5 Hz, the oscillator follows a more traditional approach to mechanical timekeeping than the higher-frequency movements commonly encountered today. It incorporates a Nivarox 1 balance spring with a No. 80 Breguet terminal curve and geometry developed by Gustav Gerstenberger.
Fine regulation is achieved through the Grossmann micrometer screw positioned on the cantilevered balance cock, while the completed movement is adjusted in five positions.
There is a certain elegance to this approach. Rather than pursuing ever-higher operating frequencies, the emphasis is on carefully engineered components, precise adjustment and traditional mechanical principles. It speaks to the manufacturer’s confidence in its own methods, and reinforces the impression that every technical decision has been made with a clear purpose.
Exclusivity That Has Genuine Meaning
Limited editions have become so common in luxury watchmaking that the designation alone carries considerably less significance than it once did. Some manufacturers produce anniversary pieces in numbers that stretch into the hundreds or thousands, relying on a special dial colour or commemorative engraving to distinguish them from standard production models.
The Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel is a very different proposition. With only 18 pieces produced worldwide, this is a watch that will remain genuinely uncommon, even within established collections of independent horology.
Its rarity is particularly meaningful because the underlying craftsmanship is equally exceptional. An edition of 18 pieces would be far less interesting if the watch itself offered little beyond its restricted production. Here, however, the exclusivity complements a movement and design philosophy that already possess considerable substance.
Collectors who have reached a stage where acquiring another familiar luxury sports watch holds limited appeal may find this especially attractive. There is pleasure in owning a timepiece that reflects a more individual appreciation of watchmaking, particularly one that is unlikely to be recognised outside a relatively small circle of enthusiasts.
The watch is completed with a hand-stitched kudu leather strap and solid stainless steel buckle, a fitting choice for a piece that values material quality and understated refinement over obvious extravagance.
A Watch That Reflects a More Mature Approach to Collecting
The longer one spends around exceptional watches, the easier it becomes to distinguish between luxury that is intended to be noticed and luxury that is intended to be appreciated. Both have their place, and there is certainly no shortage of remarkable watches that make a bold visual statement. Yet there is a particular satisfaction in owning something whose greatest qualities are not immediately apparent.
The Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel belongs firmly in that category. Its anthracite dial and matt stainless steel case provide an elegant contemporary appearance, but the real pleasure comes from understanding what sits behind that relatively restrained exterior.
It is a watch for someone who appreciates the difference between machine decoration and traditional hand-finishing, who finds genuine interest in an unconventional hand-setting mechanism, and who understands why the construction of a balance cock or the finishing of a ratchet wheel can be every bit as captivating as an elaborate dial-side complication.
More importantly, it is a watch that does not rely on widespread recognition to establish its appeal. Its value as an object of horological interest is evident in the quality of its construction, the reputation of the manufactory and the skill of the watchmakers responsible for bringing it to life.
Final Thoughts
The Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel is not attempting to be the most extravagant watch in a collection. It is something more considered, a celebration of traditional German watchmaking presented through a distinctly modern design.
The matt stainless steel case and anthracite dial give the BENU Power Reserve a refined, contemporary personality, while the calibre 100.2 provides the mechanical depth expected from one of Glashütte’s finest independent manufacturers. The linear power-reserve indicator, ingenious hand-setting mechanism, beautifully engraved components and traditional movement architecture make this a timepiece whose appeal extends well beyond its appearance.
Its production of just 18 pieces worldwide adds another dimension, particularly for collectors who appreciate owning something genuinely uncommon. Yet it is the quality of the watchmaking, rather than the limited number alone, that makes this anniversary release worthy of attention.
After all, a truly distinguished collection is not simply a gathering of expensive watches. It is a reflection of individual taste, an appreciation for remarkable craftsmanship and an understanding of what makes certain timepieces special. The BENU Power Reserve Matt Steel represents those qualities beautifully.
For the gentleman who has little left to prove through the watch on his wrist, there is considerable pleasure in wearing something that speaks quietly, but with unmistakable authority.
