Description
Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Argente
The Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Argente represents one of the most intricate and refined achievements in contemporary Glashütte watchmaking. Released to commemorate the manufactory’s 17th anniversary, this grand complication embodies the brand’s philosophy of combining simple yet perfect mechanics with timeless aesthetics. It is a creation designed not only to endure the centuries but to measure them flawlessly, automatically adjusting for the irregularities of months and leap years with precision and grace.
At the heart of this masterpiece lies the principle of perpetual accuracy. The perpetual calendar mechanism keeps the date, day, month, and moon phase in synchrony, even as the calendar year shifts through its natural irregularities. This is a true triumph of mechanical ingenuity and one of the greatest challenges in traditional horology. Moritz Grossmann’s approach achieves this with clarity and elegance, ensuring the complexity of the movement is reflected only in its performance, not in its appearance.
The argenté dial is beautifully balanced and symmetrical. A ring displaying the full 1–31 date scale encircles the dial, with a cup-shaped indicator marking the current date in an understated yet visually distinctive way. The day and month are each presented on smaller subsidiary dials at three and nine o’clock, their refined azurage finishing catching the light in delicate circular patterns. Small apertures within these subdials provide the leap-year and day–night indicators, allowing quick orientation when setting the watch. Above them, the moon phase at twelve o’clock adds a poetic touch, its mother-of-pearl moon gliding across a goldstone sky that glimmers with minute copper crystals, recalling the stillness of a starry night.
Ease of operation was a defining priority in the development of this model. Each display can be individually adjusted using correctors neatly recessed into the rose gold case, activated by a special tool provided with the watch. The innovative “sum corrector” enables all indications to advance simultaneously after periods of rest — a hallmark of the manufactory’s commitment to practical refinement and mechanical logic.
Driving the Perpetual Calendar is the newly engineered Calibre 101.13, a hand-wound movement comprising an extraordinary 401 individual components. Built upon the 100.1 base calibre, it introduces a dedicated module for the perpetual calendar consisting of 211 parts alone. Every detail demonstrates Grossmann’s dedication to precision and craftsmanship: a redesigned stopwork, integrated manual winder, and a refined barrel bridge construction that exemplify both innovation and respect for tradition. The shock-absorbed Grossmann balance, complete with Nivarox 1 spring and Gustav Gerstenberger geometry, ensures consistent accuracy at 18,000 vibrations per hour.
The movement’s visual presentation is a work of art in itself. With untreated German silver plates, raised gold chatons, and hand-engraved details, it showcases the manufactory’s signature Glashütte style. The 2/3 plate layout, inspired by 19th-century pocket watches, gives depth and proportion, while the polished bevels and blued screws speak to meticulous, hands-on finishing. Through the sapphire crystal case back, the calibre becomes a gallery of traditional horology.
Encased in warm 18-carat rose gold, the 41 mm case pairs beautifully with the gleaming silver argenté dial. The slim, lance-shaped hands and cup-shaped date indicator are also crafted in rose gold, lending a sense of unity to the overall design. Worn on a dark brown alligator leather strap with a matching rose gold prong buckle, the Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Argente offers both visual and tactile sophistication.
Ultimately, this timepiece is an ode to permanence — a mechanical reflection of humankind’s quest to capture time in its purest form. Through its flawless engineering, refined aesthetics, and emotional depth, the Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Argente continues the brand’s legacy of blending technical mastery with enduring beauty.
Technical Specifications
- Model: Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Argente (Ref. MG-003906)
- Movement: Manufacture Calibre 101.13, hand-wound, regulated in five positions
- Components: 401 total (190 movement + 211 perpetual calendar module)
- Jewels: 37 jewels, including 4 gold chatons (3 screwed)
- Escapement: Lever escapement
- Oscillator: Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws, 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring, No. 80 terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
- Frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour (2.5 Hz)
- Power Reserve: 42 hours when fully wound
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds with stop-second function, date, day of week, month, moon phase, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
- Operating Elements: Crown and pusher in rose gold, recessed correctors for date, day, month, and moon phase, sum corrector for date adjustment
- Case: Three-part, 18-carat rose gold
- Dimensions: Diameter 41.0 mm, height 13.9 mm
- Movement Dimensions: Diameter 36.4 mm, height 8.3 mm
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating (front and display back)
- Special Features: Hand-finished movement, untreated German silver 2/3 plate, raised gold chatons, stop-second function, hand setting override with lateral pusher, gear wheel stopwork with two-teeth backlash
- Strap: Dark brown alligator leather with rose gold prong buckle
